Anti-wet-sumping valves

Frequently asked for my honest opinion!

That’s a hot potato and there are all sorts of opinion on the forums.
I’ve had A65’s and Norton twins drop a pint every 2 days and yet run perfectly fine.  In fact I had an email from my friend Gary at SRM saying that while most of these bikes wet sump badly after they have done a few miles, back in the day we hardly noticed because we rode them almost every day.
The only valve we do is 99-Us/s ($114.34 Canadian) with either 5/16 or 3/8 fitting for the oil pipe. These are made in stainless steel in Wales by a company which makes parts for Boeing.  I have sold literally hundreds of them and only one engine blow up reported – the guy had forgotten to tighten the lower hose to the valve and it sucked air.  One local dealer buys two or three every month.
Opinions differ – Les Emery (Norvil) says he’ll sell you an engine rebuild kit with the valve because you will need it!
Would I fit one to my bikes?   In all honesty no. With Norton twins (other than 72/3 750’s)  if you get the drain plug/ filter assy with the little drain plug in the ,middle it makes draining the sump an easy thing to do.
3 tips:
1. always park the bike on the centre stand
2. when you switch the motor off, press down on the k/s lever till you feel compression
3. run the bike on straight 50 oil (remember to warm it up before riding).


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The only one currently available is 54202275. This causes concern with Triumph and BSA Triple owners because it is narrower than the ones originally sold with the bikes.  It is OK to use 54202275 and it will work fine as long as you space it to run centrally in the stator.

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Torque Wrenches

Been asked a couple of times recently for torque specs on wheel nipples.  I have never personally used one and neither has our wheelbuilder. I put the question to Central Wheel Co in the UK and they tell me that in over 100 years of wheelbuilding  they have never used a torque wrench.

I don’t knock torque wrenches and find them very advisable on modern bikes. Nevertheless I do remember a question to one of the bike mags years ago when a writer was asking for the head bolt torque specs on (I think) a very early A10.  The answer was that the A10 was invented before the torque wrench. Basically an experienced mechanic can fasten up most of the nuts and bolts very successfully by feel.

Back to wheels, my thoughts are very well known in that it is not a job for the inexperienced.  OK have a go if you like but for goodness sake have an experienced wheelbuilder check it afterwards.  The main thing is to get even tension on all spokes and this is easily checked by spinning the wheel and tapping a wrench against them to make sure they all sound the same.  Uneven tension will quickly lead to spoke breakages.

As for build – aim for getting it within 40 thou (3/64″) excluding 2″ each side of the weld.

New product coming soon – self balancing inner tubes.  These have special magic beads inside them and they do really work.  Unfortunately not yet available in 325/350X19 & 350/400X18 (the two sizes we sell the most of) but we are working on it.



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Matchless/AJS footrests 01-8601


This is the regular driver’s footrest fitted to all 350 – 750 AJS & Matchless machines (other than competition models) from the early 1950’s thru to 1968.  Been in very short supply for a long time so we got 200 made (powder coated) and they are selling well.     $60.45 Canadian ($48.36US at today’s rate) each.

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P11/ G80CS etc fork sliders

Been asked for these a lot!

We now have a source – 2-3 weeks to get in, part no 02-2794.  These are good quality reproductions, polished aluminum complete with end caps studs and nuts. $285.57 Canadian each – that’s $228.46US at today’s rate.  This rate is likely to change any day due to strengthening Canadian dollar.

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Leftovers Sale

It’s up and running and you can download it from the home page  I put quite a few new items in there as well.

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Pansy options.

Mirrors, electric starters and turn signals.   Well that’s what I called them in the 60’s when I didn’t think they belonged on real motorcycles.  Now I must admit I use all three on my 2015 750GSXR.

On the old British bikes before the Commando mirrors would shake so much you couldn’t see in them and no-one kept up with us so no need to look behind and electric starters – well they were only on the Commando before the late 70’s, nuf said.

We had a guy last week asking for the correct mirror for a 57 TRW.  Well you can fit what you like and it will be correct.  BSA and Triumph first fitted them in 1970 with special lever perches which had holes to mount them and Nortons from 1971.  In Ontario the law demands that you have one.  Thanks for the business Minister of Transport.

When you get a bit older, electric starters become a lot more desirable, especially judging by the number of Alton kits we sell.

As for turn signals I guess they are a good safe option and I do use them and even remember to turn them off sometimes.  Why all bikes don’t have self cancelling I don’t know.  I had that on a Yamaha some time ago and the one on a Harley Sportster I endured for a season switched itself off after 20 seconds – I guess it takes a Harley 20 second to get around a corner?  Some countries insist on all bikes (even pre-war) having turn signals, again thanks for the business Ministers of Transport – helps us sell our 6 & 12 volt wiring, switch and flasher kits!



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