The most common Renold chains we sell are single row rear types 5/8 X 3/8 (110056/530), 5/8 X 1/4 (110054/520), single row primary type 1/2 X 5/16 (110046/429) and primary types two row (114038) and three row (116038).
These chains are supplied in even numbers of links – eg 110056/110 for a 110 link rear chain. It is best to fit the chain and then cut it to length to suit the bike it is going on – the number of links required might well not be that specified for the bike, due to the sprockets having been changed. Also, do not replace it automatically with the number of links of the old chain which may well have stretched and a new one might be too short.
Quite often the number of links required might come to an odd number and a customer recently found the above 1/2 link (Renold type No.12) and wanted to know why we don’t stock it. Form a common sense perspective I don’t think I’d like this part on my bike, held together with a crude split/cotter pin and thought it looked more like an industrial chain component. To be on the safe side I referred this to my UK Renold distributor who confirmed that this is not part of the Renold motorcycle catalogue and must not be used on a motorcycle. To achieve an odd number of links Renold No. 30 1 1/2″ link component must be used. Eg 110056/30 for a rear type 530 chain. Ideally this should be fitted with a properly installed rivet link No 107. Renold do recommend that rivet links should be used in preference to regular spring clip master links No 26 however the latter are OK in regular use as long as in good condition and fitted with the closed end of the clip moving it the forward direction of the chain. The VRRA allows type 26 to be used for racing as long as the clip is safety wired.
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It is with great sadness that I am letting friends know that our dear friend, colleague and mentor sadly passed away on Thursday.
Our thoughts and prayers are with his family at this sad time, we will surely miss him..
Just put this nice pair together for a customer with an early 1966 N15CS. I’ve had a few NOS NLA “chopped” rights for years so nice to put one to good use. The LH float chamber serves both carbs. I had a pair on an AJS “33” in the late 1960’s and they worked well except with a sidecar fitted the right hand cylinder cut out on right hand bends. Also slide adjustment on the left hand carb is a bit of a pain!
This is a common one and I’ve addressed it before. A couple of people have had problems this week with twins running on one cylinder or misfiring on one and think they need to buy a new Boyer kit. This can not be a problem with the Boyer which fires both plugs together.
First thing – swap the plug leads and plugs over. If the problem stays on the same side the cause must be carburation or mechanical malfunctions on that cylinder. If the problem goes to the other side the cause must be faulty HT windings in the coil, faulty HT lead, plug cap of spark plug.
3 enquiries about this for concentric Mk1 carbs in one day so best reply here.
I really wonder about carb “rebuild kits” – people think they can get one of these kits Amal offer and it will magically make their carbs like new again. Most used Amals I see
have been so used and abused they are junk and I hate to see people waste their money.
In all honesty and responsibility I prefer to level with customers rather than rip them off with something which won’t solve their problems.
Only if the slide to body wear is still OK and the pilot circuit is completely clean – MUST pressure check from all 4 directions -then you can go with the following:
New needle jet – this is the highest wear part in the carb and is usually overlooked!
New needle if original is worn or damaged (usually not) but check 2.67″ long so a previous owner has not fitted the wrong one. 4 Strokes all use part no 622/124
Gasket and o ring set
Stay up float kit
New viton tipped aluminum float needle – only use in concentric carbs, stick with the brass type for monoblocs.
If you have one of the very early carbs with a screwed in rather than pressed in pilot jet, my advice is get a new carb, don’t try top fix it. This is discussed in detail in an earlier blog.
Frequently asked for my honest opinion!
That’s a hot potato and there are all sorts of opinion on the forums.
I’ve had A65’s and Norton twins drop a pint every 2 days and yet run perfectly fine. In fact I had an email from my friend Gary at SRM saying that while most of these bikes wet sump badly after they have done a few miles, back in the day we hardly noticed because we rode them almost every day.
The only valve we do is 99-Us/s ($114.34 Canadian) with either 5/16 or 3/8 fitting for the oil pipe. These are made in stainless steel in Wales by a company which makes parts for Boeing. I have sold literally hundreds of them and only one engine blow up reported – the guy had forgotten to tighten the lower hose to the valve and it sucked air. One local dealer buys two or three every month.
Opinions differ – Les Emery (Norvil) says he’ll sell you an engine rebuild kit with the valve because you will need it!
Would I fit one to my bikes? In all honesty no. With Norton twins (other than 72/3 750’s) if you get the drain plug/ filter assy with the little drain plug in the ,middle it makes draining the sump an easy thing to do.
1. always park the bike on the centre stand
2. when you switch the motor off, press down on the k/s lever till you feel compression
3. run the bike on straight 50 oil (remember to warm it up before riding).